MYSTRA, GREECE Travel Review — A Preserved Byzantine Castle

Radiant sunflowers and scarlet hibiscus blossom in the gardens of peach homes under terracotta roofs. As we drive up these coiling roads, the car window offers rapid glimpses of mountainous views of the ancient city of Sparta. Hikers trickle down the side of the road as we reach the archaeological site of Mystra, signaling us to park our cars and begin our hike through the Byzantine fortress.

At the start of our hike, we approach an 800-year-old front gate and embark on a cobblestone path of smooth and jagged rocks. We share the perspective of Greek soldiers who once trudged here centuries ago, and from this view, we strain our necks and squint our eyes to admire the intimidating acropolis. This writer imagined it must have been arduous for soldiers to amble these mountains in their armor and traditional sandals!

MYSTRA Transports Hikers to a Secluded, Archaeological Wonder

Along our journey to the acropolis, we encounter ruins and remains of stone buildings, where trees and vines sprout through the windows and attempt to absorb such an old city. In one structure, a door reveals an opening to the forest, and trees grow rampant as they shed their green leaves. As we crawl, traipse, and climb over rocks, we realize the walls of these structures are impervious to both invasions and nature.

The cobblestone trail fades as we reach a path of solid dirt, and if we look down, we can see the lower city of Mystra – the gate we entered, the stone steps we climbed, and the solid remains we explored. The city of Sparta is richer now as every tree grows around sporadically spaced homes. Opposite to us are mountains on the other side of the Peloponnese, layering themselves in various shades of blue.

We return to another uneven rock path, one much steeper than before. Now at a higher elevation, the other side of Sparta enters our view, and organized neighborhoods form. Houses and trees shield every inch of the city – any available square inch of green will soon be a sapling for an orange or lemon tree.

At this point in our hike, we enter the castle and step into passageways, leading us into different areas of the acropolis. We clamber into beacons, watch towers, and the walls of the castle. Small windows line the stone walls, which once permitted the Mystra soldiers to shoot arrows at onrushing invaders. With a view of the entire city, these soldiers could alarm the despot of enemies about fifty kilometers before their arrival at the front gate. Ascending into the peak of the hike, our vast view of Mystra has expanded, and we see all of the world beneath us. We look over the wall to glimpse at the other side of the mountain, where the verdant area is bustling with forest green trees, blocking our sight of the roads below.

Exiting the castle, we walk downhill on the cobblestone path, which requires patience and strength. Hikers must find the sweet-spot between naturally succumbing to gravity and calculating their own footing – one misstep leads to a tumble. 

Once we descend the Upper City of Mystra, we enter the Lower City, which includes the Despot’s Palace, chapels, monasteries, and a museum. The Despot’s Palace is the most furnished of the buildings on the archaeological site as it is the only structure with a roof and sustained gardens. Unfortunately, at this time, the Despot’s Palace is closed for renovation, truncating the hikes of this summer’s tourists. 

In this writer’s opinion, the interiors of the chapels are some of the most intriguing sights of the hike because the colorful murals and mosaics have survived eight hundred years. Midnight blues, golds, and crimsons envelop the resplendent murals depicting Eastern Orthodox teachings.  

This trek is perfect for escaping urban Greece and visiting an archaeological site removed from society. While the hike is not overtly taxing, the steep, downhill path requires steadiness, stability, and proficient eye-foot coordination.

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Distance: 4 Miles

Fee: 12 Euros 

Photos by Alexis Leonard

Alexis Leonard

About the Author: Alexis Leonard

Alexis Leonard’s passion for reading and writing began in the Hundred Acre Wood when she accompanied Christopher Robin and Winnie the Pooh on their friendly, imaginative adventures. At the age of seven, Alexis was inspired by this honey-loving bear and began writing her own short stories filled with magical kingdoms, eerie forests, and furry monsters. She is interested in international relations and foreign languages, practicing her language skills by reading short stories from around the globe and learning about literature from different cultures. In her spare time, you will find Alexis reading psychological thrillers, watching anime, or focusing on her own creative writing.

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